The Mekong Rises

All the latest gourmet news from Berkshire’s culinary scene

I admit I had never tried Vietnamese food before. But when I heard about the Suum Vietnamese Kitchen just over the border in Marlow, I embarked on a voyage of delicious discovery.

I loved the look and feel of the place. It’s sleek and dark, with an attractive tiled floor and bar, and modern screening. The staff were so welcoming, we were made to feel right at home. And most importantly the menu... it’s inspired by the flavors, ingredients, aromas, and techniques found along the Mekong and Red River Delta.

From Hai Phong, husband-andwife duo Nhung and Nhan came to the UK separately as students, and after meeting and settling down together, the pair shared a dream of opening a restaurant replicating the authentic, comforting, home-cooked dishes from their homeland.

Every dish in the cuisine of Vietnam features the five distinctive ‘pillars’ or tastes (‘ng vi’). ‘Suum’ is derived from the Vietnamese ‘sum vâ y’, meaning a cozy gathering around a dining table, which is a daily ritual in the culture of the Southeast Asian country.

Lunch features a line-up of soul-restoring Pho, generously filled crispy bánh mì and big bowls filled with delicious ingredients, and for dinner, the menu expands, offering a huge selection of regional small plates as starters (green mango or papaya salad; summer rolls; soft shell crab) and larger dishes segmented into fish, meat, soups, and noodle dishes, whilst vegetarian and vegan options are available for many of the options.