The first look on the runway said it all: A crisp cornflower blue shirt worn underneath an oversize blazer, paired with slouchy corduroy trousers and white sneakers—not a single loafer or leather piece in sight. For a house famed for exactly those two product categories, it was clearly the dawn of a new age. The man responsible for this paradigm shift at Tod’s is Walter Chiapponi, who showed his first collection for the House earlier this year in February for fall/winter 2020. It is Chiapponi’s first creative directorship, but he brings with him years of experience honed at heavyweight fashion names such as Miu Miu, Givenchy, Valentino and Gucci.
Accordingly, his first order of business at the Italian house is to beef up its fashion offering. The studio team in charge of design after Alessandra Facchinetti’s departure in 2016 had mostly stuck to wardrobe staples and timeless essentials—chic, for sure, but not exactly groundbreaking. “I wanted to draw on the Italian lifestyle and elegance, but give it a contemporary twist and a touch of subtle boldness. A big part of my references came from the ’70s. My idea was to rediscover the classics, but imprinted with a gentle rebellion,” says Chiapponi on what he wanted to achieve with his debut collection. That gentle rebellion and subtle boldness came through in his slouchy suiting, the oversize outerwear, the slightly off-kilter colour combinations (like baby blue with chartreuse) and the hints of grunge he injected into the Milanese bourgeois look.
This story is from the {{IssueName}} edition of {{MagazineName}}.
Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 9,000+ magazines and newspapers.
Already a subscriber ? Sign In
This story is from the {{IssueName}} edition of {{MagazineName}}.
Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 9,000+ magazines and newspapers.
Already a subscriber? Sign In
Lights, Camera, Fashion
How does social media alter the way we consume fashion cues from our favourite TV shows and movies?
Beyond Beaches
Escape Down Under for everything your heart desires a romantic intimate wedding, or a cruise along Sydney's picturesque harbour. The world is your oyster and the best thing is you can eat it too.
Out Of This World
Celestial bodies animate autumn's most elegant spritzes.
Do You Fashion, Bro?
As the number of male fashion influencers swells, we look at what's driving this trend.
DOWN TO EARTH
In the spacious apartment of Geraldine Toh and Vincent Lim, art, design elements and an earthy sensibility commingle in perfect harmony.
CRUISING ALTITUDE
With his idiosyncratic Thai movies, dashing movie star good looks and frequent Paris red carpet appearances, Apo Nattawin Wattanagitiphat is bringing the best of Thailand to the rest of the world.
PUT A RING ON IT
Complete your love story with a beautiful engagement ring and exquisite bridal jewellery from storied London jeweller, GRAFF.
PERFECTING TIME
With its unique Atelier d'Antoine programme and an assembly of artisans, Jaeger-LeCoultre shows how it takes watchcraft into the next level.
SOMEWHERE OVER THE RAINBOW
'The Shape of Colours', Hermès haute bijouterie collection, is a true technicolour dream.
HAUTE BIJOUX
The latest and most talked-about collections.