Heard & Seen

The women who are making moves in the fashion industry are clear about their role. Whether in their creative vision or the tribes they build—they are working to uplift one another and create opportunities. We asked them what it means to be a female designer in 2019.

RASHMI VARMA

“I think everything we do is political. How you make your clothes, and consume them. It’s important that as women we support and give each other a voice. Having solid mentors and a strong peer group is also necessary. I used to work with [filmmaker] Deepa Mehta who has such a clear, independent vision and is supportive of young talent. Mentors like that are important. Even all the women in my own circle of friends are so smart and progressive, they inform my world and my everyday.”

PAYAL KHANDWALA

Payal Khandwala states what her brand is about: “I like my clothes to be stylish, and I love when they are a bit dramatic, but they have to be 100 percent practical.” The result is a label built on luxurious, softly-tailored separates such as silk brocade culottes, slim-cut trousers, long kurtas, collared shirts, and pleated capes. “On the one hand, we’ve been fed so many fairy tales that everyone wants to dress like a princess. But the other extreme shouldn’t have to be a tuxedo. The male gaze is so endemic, that subliminally we’ve normalised it. As a woman designing for women I explore both sides of our personalities. The fierce and the feminine.”

SONAL VERMA, RARA AVIS

“Fashion is no longer bound to a certain size or body type or age. It’s about breaking stereotypes and wearing what resonates with one’s personality. I love working with traditionally male fabrics and patterns—herringbone, houndstooth, and suiting material—to create dresses and jackets. The idea is to provide space and movement within strict boundaries of gender.”

RINA SINGH, EKA