COCO CHANEL LEFT an indelible mark on feminine style specifically by introducing a sporty, casual chic aesthetic as the new standard in the post-Great War era, freeing women from a lifetime of corsets — and the antiquated gender roles of the last century.
A non-conformist ahead of her time, Chanel’s legacy is the inspiration behind many of the maison’s iconic motifs, such as the matelassé pattern famously exhibited on the 2.55 handbag to the camellia flower stylised into brooches and fine jewellery pieces. The former came about from the quilted stitching of the leather saddles she had noticed during the many equestrian events she attended with her partner Boy Capel, while the latter was her favourite flower.
Chanel’s design ethos was to choose materials for their comfort, underpinned by her goal of achieving freedom of movement as her ideal wardrobe was one that supported her active lifestyle of travelling and playing sports. It was also the impetus behind her appropriation of men’s clothing, cutting, re-sewing, and tailoring them to her svelte frame. This eventually led to her working with jersey and then tweed in the 1920s, when her fashion house was established. Memorably, she even said, “I’m most at ease in an old suit, but not in those heavy, rouge materials... Oh no! Not at all... In fact, it was I who taught the Scots how to make lightweight tweeds. I promise you I had a tough time convincing them!”
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