In our history books, khadi, the hand-spun, handwoven cloth promoted by Mahatma Gandhi, was a symbol of resistance, of an independent India, and of a much aspired-for simplicity in deed and in thought. Now, seven decades later, khadi in its natural form is becoming a blank canvas for India’s creatives. Mayank Mansingh Kaul, co-curator of the travelling exhibit Meanings, Metaphor - Handspun And Handwoven In The 21st Century, writes about the resurgent interest in the very fabric of India’s Independence and how designers today are innovating and subverting its very essence
In late December 2016, Ahalya Matthan, founder of The Registry of Sarees in Bengaluru, and I met in Delhi, after several months of phone conversations. Having been one of the initiators of 100 Saree Pact, a hugely popular social media campaign to popularise the wearing of handloom saris among a young generation of Indian women, Matthan asked me to consider collaborating with her on a curated exhibition. The idea grew, and we soon found ourselves setting up a study and research centre that could archive collections of saris. As we travelled through the country sourcing textiles and meeting with master weavers and antique dealers alike, a collection of handspun and handwoven fabrics “found us,” as Matthan puts it.
Between 2002-03, the late Indian textile specialist Martand Singh had curated and presented an exhibition called Khadi: The Fabric Of Freedom. Its core collection had been in the custodianship of Rta Kapur Chishti since then, who had been one of the key team members of the exhibition, along with historian Rahul Jain and designer Rakesh Thakore. She was exploring the possibility of the collection being made accessible to the public at large, serving as a reference for designers and researchers as well. With 108 varieties of cotton khadi represented from nine states of the country, from the thickest of denim to the fi nest muslin from Bengal of almost 400 counts, it found its way to the centre. Matthan and I were inspired then to revive the original exhibition in a new form, and Meanings, Metaphor - Handspun And Handwoven In The 21st Century was born.
CHANGING THE NARRATIVE
This story is from the {{IssueName}} edition of {{MagazineName}}.
Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 9,000+ magazines and newspapers.
Already a subscriber ? Sign In
This story is from the {{IssueName}} edition of {{MagazineName}}.
Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 9,000+ magazines and newspapers.
Already a subscriber? Sign In
Breathe In, Breathe Out
A powerful tool to help you master your nervous system or another biohacking buzzword? SIMONE DHONDY explores the inhalations and exhalations of breathwork
Red Pill, Blue Pill
India's nutraceutical industry is booming thanks to advanced technology, distrust of the medical system and rising vanity. With multivitamins becoming purer and more effective, NIDHI GUPTA finds out if supplements have become the new serum
Sign of the times
No longer do you need to have an answer to, \"What is the significance of this?\" when people point to your new tattoo. ARMAN KHAN discovers that everything is on the table when you get inked temporarily
Return to form
Watching the world's most elite athletes deliver the best performances of their careers rekindled SONAKSHI SHARMA's own love for sports
Dimple, All Day
YOU MAY HAVE WATCHED HER ON THE BIG SCREEN FOR OVER FIVE DECADES, BUT DON'T MAKE THE MISTAKE OF ASSUMING THAT YOU KNOW DIMPLE KAPADIA.
MUSIC, TAKE CONTROL
As someone who had always sought safety in numbers, ALIZA FATMA often wondered what her own company would feel like. The answer arrived unexpectedly when she attended her first-ever music festival, one of the largest in the world, all alone
Let it grow
When we think of hardworking farmers toiling in India's scorching heat, we often think of men, the sweat on their brow, the sinews in their arms. JYOTI KUMARI speaks to four women who are championing the invisible female labour that keeps these fields running
YOU'LL NEVER WALK ALONE
When armless archer Sheetal Devi set her sights on the Paralympic Games this year, she knew she had a tough journey ahead of her. Luckily, her mother was with her every step of the way.
Beauty and the feast
The appeal of Indian weddings has always been in a sprawling spread. For additional bragging rights, Aditi Dugar recommends going beyond designer tablecloths and monogrammed napkins.
Sweet serendipity
From a scavenger hunt-inspired proposal to a Moroccan-themed baraat, Malvika Raj and Armaan Rai's love story prioritised playfulness throughout their blended celebrations.
