Argentinian Malbec, Chilean Cabernet Sauvignon, Uruguayan Tannat – if you think that’s all there is to South American wine, read on. At first sight, most of the blends here are centred on these varieties, but closer inspection reveals a more complex and exciting picture. The quality of red blends is undeniable, particularly in Argentina and Chile, where respectively 81% and 75% of the wines I tasted rated Highly Recommended or better. I don’t consider myself a generous scorer, so that sets an impressive standard. Of the small sample of Uruguayan wines, 40% scored at least Highly Recommended.
The top four wines are outstanding Bordeaux blends from leading producers in Argentina and Chile. Far from being mere imitations of their French counterparts, however, they all reflect in different ways the unique character of their origins.
In each country, at least one other variety has emerged as a successful partner to the classic blends. Cabernet Franc features in most of my preferred Argentinian blends; it reins in the roundness of Malbec and adds precision and definition to its structure. In Chile, Syrah shows up in three of the chosen wines, combining successfully not only with deep-rooted Cabernet Sauvignon but perhaps more interestingly with Carmenère, where it adds fruit and volume to the blend. In Uruguay, Merlot made the winning combinations, bringing flesh and mid-palate fruit to the more savoury Tannat.
Traditional varieties such as Bonarda in Argentina and Cinsault in Chile from revived old vineyards deliver fantastic value; expect to see more of these styles emerging. I found adventurous Uruguayan blends of Tannat with Portuguese Sousão or Spanish Tempranillo. And there are signs that Rhône varieties have started to succeed in Argentina: watch this space (see p95, Syrah panel tasting).
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