AGEING ITALIAN WHITES: a (patient) wine lover's guide
Decanter|May 2020
Put aside those preconceptions, Aldo Fiordelli argues – as well as its plethora of youngand-fresh white wine styles, Italy offers many surprising options that are well worth tucking away in your cellar. He highlights the producers to seek out, and 10 great wines to age
Aldo Fiordelli
AGEING ITALIAN WHITES: a (patient) wine lover's guide
A strikingly beautiful wine of citrussy and flinty minerality, with subdued nuttiness and a refreshing style: undoubtedly Puligny, some of the wine lovers around the table were thinking. But it wasn’t. Similarly, it wasn’t as young as estimated by the majority of us. Jaws dropped when the bottle was revealed to be a non-macerated Vitovska 1996 from Edi Kante in Carso, in Friuli-Venezia Giulia’s far southeastern corner along the border with Slovenia.

In Italy, white wines are almost always intended for early consumption. Arneis, Cortese, Friulano and Vernaccia are all examples of delicious, crisp wines. Italian producers are not challenged to produce ageworthy whites, mainly because the consumer is suspicious of drinking them after more than two to three years. So, to what extent are we aware of the evolution of certain indigenous Italian white wines?

Looking around the country, there are at least two groups of grape varieties that deserve a more respectful approach. Vitovska, along with Trebbiano d’Abruzzo and Carricante, are fairly neutral whites marked by steely minerality, high acidity and low pH. On the other side, there are the more phenolic grape such as Fiano, Garganega and Vermentino: less neutral, less aggressive in acidity, richer in body. Verdicchio shares characteristics with both groups.

Of course, it must be said that there are also outstanding examples of international grape varieties in Italy with well-known labels, including Antinori’s Cervaro della Sala from Umbria (a blend of Chardonnay and Grechetto), Gaja’s Gaia & Rey from Langhe (Chardonnay; see ‘Interview’, p74) and Querciabella’s Batàr (Chardonnay and Pinot Bianco) in the SuperTuscan category.

This story is from the {{IssueName}} edition of {{MagazineName}}.

Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 9,000+ magazines and newspapers.

This story is from the {{IssueName}} edition of {{MagazineName}}.

Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 9,000+ magazines and newspapers.

MORE STORIES FROM DECANTERView all
A Resource for the World? - Argentina is unique in the genetic diversity preserved in much of its vine material. With climate change and disease posing increasing threats worldwide, Catena Zapata winery is asking what lessons can be learned to protect vineyards within and beyond the nation's borders
Decanter

A Resource for the World? - Argentina is unique in the genetic diversity preserved in much of its vine material. With climate change and disease posing increasing threats worldwide, Catena Zapata winery is asking what lessons can be learned to protect vineyards within and beyond the nation's borders

Argentina is unique in the genetic diversity preserved in much of its vine material. With climate change and disease posing increasing threats worldwide, Catena Zapata winery is asking what lessons can be learned to protect vineyards within and beyond the nation’s borders

time-read
8 mins  |
September 2024
Great Cabernets of South America
Decanter

Great Cabernets of South America

Other varieties may hog the limelight across South America, but the world’s most popular grape for red wines has played a critical role in the continent's wine heritage. We trace Cabernet Sauvignon’s story here, and recommend 16 benchmark wines to try

time-read
7 mins  |
September 2024
PROVENCE by train and bike
Decanter

PROVENCE by train and bike

With rail links to Paris, Nice, Marseilles and beyond, a vast network of cycle paths and quiet roads, and a plethora of historic wine estates, Provence is an ideal destination for an eco-friendly, car-free and carefree) holiday

time-read
6 mins  |
September 2024
IN THE MIX
Decanter

IN THE MIX

These days most of the world’s vineyards are planted to just a single variety, but what happens when multiple varieties are planted, harvested and blended together?

time-read
3 mins  |
September 2024
Malvasia A BUYER'S GUIDE
Decanter

Malvasia A BUYER'S GUIDE

If ever a grape was hard to pin down, it'd be Malvasia. Indeed it’s not even a single grape variety. In all of its many varied, and often completely unrelated guises, it has been the mainstay of popular wine styles across the centuries. Our expert takes a closer look...

time-read
9 mins  |
September 2024
RIBERA ADOPTS THE NEW OLD WAYS
Decanter

RIBERA ADOPTS THE NEW OLD WAYS

It’s not so much a new direction for winemakers in Ribera del Duero, but a growing recognition that traditional methods and wine styles set aside by the previous generation can now provide a way ahead to revitalise the region

time-read
8 mins  |
September 2024
Roussanne around the world
Decanter

Roussanne around the world

Up for a challenge? For winemakers as much as wine drinkers, getting a handle on a mercurial grape such as Roussanne isn't easy. But wherever it's grown, when the balance is right, it truly repays the effort

time-read
10+ mins  |
September 2024
Napa Cabernet 2021
Decanter

Napa Cabernet 2021

There's a lot of excitement about this vintage, in which conditions were relatively calm and temperatures stable through summer. Ongoing drought reduced yields but intensified flavours, but it means quantities are down and you may need to act fast to secure top wines. Our Napa correspondent selects 60 great wines from more than 500 that he tasted, with many very high scores

time-read
4 mins  |
September 2024
10 reason to discover Uruguay
Decanter

10 reason to discover Uruguay

Squeezed between Brazil and Argentina on the Atlantic coast, Uruguay has mostly flown under the tourist radar - until now. Once dubbed 'the Switzerland of the Americas', it's a welcoming country that has much to offer the travelling wine lover

time-read
5 mins  |
September 2024
Leo Erazo
Decanter

Leo Erazo

The old vines and special terroir of Itata, southern Chile, have beena source of inspiration for this intrepid winemaker. The 2023 fires were a setback, but his commitment to this ancient wine land is undiminished

time-read
8 mins  |
September 2024