Neolokal, chef Maksut Askar’s restaurant inside the SALT Galata museum, is one of Istanbul’s most exciting fine-diners and draws heavily on Askar’s southern Turkish heritage. Although Askar was born in Hatay – a province on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast – he has developed a strong understanding of the diversity of Anatolian cuisine. Best of all, he knows where to find these regional flavours in Istanbul. Prepare to have your Turkish food horizons broadened at these must-visit locations.
A FARM-TO-TABLE CAFÉ I spend two weekends a month in Yeniköy, which is home to one of my favourite cafés: Apartıman. It’s run by four siblings. One brother is in charge of the restaurant, one sister is in charge of the morning menu and the other sister is in charge of the evening menu. They also have a farm in Kırklareli City, which is close to the Bulgarian border, that the second brother takes care of. Here, they grow ingredients for their restaurant and make amazing cheeses.
FOOD FROM HATAY PROVINCE Çiya Sofrası is the restaurant that I have been visiting for the longest. Zeynep Abla, the chef and wife of owner Musa, is from my hometown. She remembers me coming to the restaurant with my mum when I was in secondary school – about 30 years ago. Whatever I was having there then, I am still having today; the quality hasn’t changed. I go there to eat seasonal home-cooking made with traditional recipes I grew up with.
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Not a vegetable but rather a flower bud that rises on a thistle, the artichoke is a complex delight. Its rewards are hard won; first you must get past the armour of petals and remove the hairy choke. Those who step up are rewarded with sweet and savoury creaminess and the elusive flavour of spring. Many of the recipes here begin with the same Provençal braise. Others call on the nuttiness of artichokes in their raw form. The results make pasta lighter and chicken brighter or can be fried to become a vessel for bold flavours all of which capture the levity of the season.
