When it comes to postcard panoramas, the vista from Aria’s dining room is unrivalled. Pearlescent Opera House sails to the right, the iconic Coathanger to the left, and a big shimmering pool between. It’s a view that has been drawing diners in for two decades. And although its surrounds remain relatively unchanged, Matt Moran’s harbourside restaurant has come a long way since its pre-Sydney Olympics reveal in 1999. Back then, out-of-season produce was flown in from across the globe to craft what Australians deemed the height of fine dining. Excess was the name of the game, as globetrotters and corporate bigwigs luxuriated for hours on end.
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Not a vegetable but rather a flower bud that rises on a thistle, the artichoke is a complex delight. Its rewards are hard won; first you must get past the armour of petals and remove the hairy choke. Those who step up are rewarded with sweet and savoury creaminess and the elusive flavour of spring. Many of the recipes here begin with the same Provençal braise. Others call on the nuttiness of artichokes in their raw form. The results make pasta lighter and chicken brighter or can be fried to become a vessel for bold flavours all of which capture the levity of the season.
