You grew up in the small rural town of Murrurundi in New South Wales. What did food mean to your family? My mum and dad ran a small business together selling firearms and chainsaws, so food for us was a very utilitarian affair. It was meat and three veg every night of the week. Mum would get home at 5.30pm and dinner would be on the table no later than 6.30pm. She didn’t have time to relish in the kitchen, but that’s not to say we didn’t eat well. I had a very narrow culinary world view growing up; I didn’t eat olives or yoghurt until I left home.
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From personal experience
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HEART AND SOUL
Not a vegetable but rather a flower bud that rises on a thistle, the artichoke is a complex delight. Its rewards are hard won; first you must get past the armour of petals and remove the hairy choke. Those who step up are rewarded with sweet and savoury creaminess and the elusive flavour of spring. Many of the recipes here begin with the same Provençal braise. Others call on the nuttiness of artichokes in their raw form. The results make pasta lighter and chicken brighter or can be fried to become a vessel for bold flavours all of which capture the levity of the season.
