Nomad by nature
Gourmet Traveller|February 2020
A change of scenery brings fresh flavours to a Sydney favourite, writes KARLIE VERKERK.
KARLIE VERKERK
Nomad by nature

A brisk walk around the block can work wonders for creativity and morale. Or in Nomad’s case, a stroll up the road. The tribe has migrated to a temporary home at the ex-Longrain site after an electrical fire broke out at their original Foster Street digs a few doors down, and it seems the fresh air and change of scenery is exactly what they needed.

The bright and unpretentious fit-out with its subtle warehouse vibe has moved with the team, as has the Mediterranean-skewed share-style menu. In today’s dining climate you’d be hard-pressed to find a menu that wasn’t designed to share. But if it’s going to make sense anywhere, it’s here. The flavours are assured and the serves honest. This is the sort of food you want to get stuck into.

Take for example the modest dish that is a flatbread, a Nomad staple. Sprinkled with za’atar and accompanied by a generous portion of silky cannellini-bean hummus and cumin brown-butter, you really don’t need to order much more. Although, I suggest you do.

Perhaps start with the fried olives. The meaty green orbs are stuffed with ’nduja, then coated in breadcrumbs and deep-fried until wonderfully golden. They’re salty and spicy and everything you want in a one-bite snack. Or the kingfish crackling: a neat pile of fried, crisp skin dusted in a punchy spice mix of smoked paprika, fennel, cumin, coriander, and black peppercorn. If this doesn’t get your tastebuds firing, nothing will.

This story is from the {{IssueName}} edition of {{MagazineName}}.

Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 9,000+ magazines and newspapers.

This story is from the {{IssueName}} edition of {{MagazineName}}.

Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 9,000+ magazines and newspapers.

MORE STORIES FROM GOURMET TRAVELLERView all
From personal experience
Gourmet Traveller

From personal experience

Former Hope St Radio chef ELLIE BOUHADANA invites you to gather your loved ones and enjoy an evening of good food and laughter with recipes from her new cookbook, Ellie's Table.

time-read
8 mins  |
September 2024
Kimberley Moulton
Gourmet Traveller

Kimberley Moulton

Kylie Kwong celebrates the individuals helping to grow a stronger community. This month, we applaud the international curator and Yorta Yorta woman who is shining a light on First Peoples.

time-read
3 mins  |
September 2024
Tom Wallace
Gourmet Traveller

Tom Wallace

We share a drop with the head winemaker for Devil's Corner, Tamar Ridge and Pirie Sparkling, a master of cool-climate grapes.

time-read
1 min  |
September 2024
Best in class
Gourmet Traveller

Best in class

The top drops to keep an eye out for on wine lists (and why they're worth the splurge)

time-read
3 mins  |
September 2024
A taste of refuge
Gourmet Traveller

A taste of refuge

Fleeing war and persecution, Australia's new arrivals push our food culture forward. DANI VALENT explores the contributions of the country's refugee communities.

time-read
4 mins  |
September 2024
BE OUR GUEST
Gourmet Traveller

BE OUR GUEST

Inspired by the sense of place conjured by Europe's Michelin-star restaurants, local restaurateurs are expanding their hospitality remit to include accommodation

time-read
6 mins  |
September 2024
Barcelona BUZZ
Gourmet Traveller

Barcelona BUZZ

A popular drawcard for digital nomads and expats alike, the Catalonian capital offers equal parts sophistication and fun. Here, DANI VALENT discovers the latest dining hotspots.

time-read
4 mins  |
September 2024
HEATHCOTE BOUND
Gourmet Traveller

HEATHCOTE BOUND

MICHAEL HARDEN hits the road to explore regional Victoria's Heathcote, home to this year's Best Destination Dining and a host of other delights.

time-read
4 mins  |
September 2024
The art of...relishing restaurants
Gourmet Traveller

The art of...relishing restaurants

Does working in hospitality make someone a better or worse diner

time-read
3 mins  |
September 2024
HEART AND SOUL
Gourmet Traveller

HEART AND SOUL

Not a vegetable but rather a flower bud that rises on a thistle, the artichoke is a complex delight. Its rewards are hard won; first you must get past the armour of petals and remove the hairy choke. Those who step up are rewarded with sweet and savoury creaminess and the elusive flavour of spring. Many of the recipes here begin with the same Provençal braise. Others call on the nuttiness of artichokes in their raw form. The results make pasta lighter and chicken brighter or can be fried to become a vessel for bold flavours all of which capture the levity of the season.

time-read
7 mins  |
September 2024