The Forgotten Casualties
Gourmet Traveller|April 2020
With the collapse of the Made Establishment group, the spotlight has been on George Calombaris, writes Tristan Lutze. But the small businesses that form the backbone of the industry are often left behind.
Tristan Lutze
The Forgotten Casualties

After three years of tumult and a series of front-page headlines, few people were surprised when Made Establishment entered voluntary administration in February. The move sounded a death knell for the hospitality empire led by George Calombaris and ignited a fierce debate over who was to blame for the collapse. Only one thing is clear: there are no winners in this situation.

Hundreds of employees, from waiters and chefs to cleaners and support staff, lost their jobs overnight as the company’s 18 Melbourne venues were forced to shut, including Gazi, Jimmy Grants and Elektra.

But despite the high-profile nature of the closures and the ensuing rhetoric around “industry in crisis”, one of the most significantly impacted groups has barely been mentioned. Producers and suppliers, the backbone of the hospitality industry, have been left out of pocket following the group’s collapse. It’s a knock-on effect of the restaurant empire’s wage scandals, which have forced small businesses to cut back staff and face thousands in unpaid bills.

Gerry Katiforis runs Fresh Generation, a supplier of fruit, vegetables, eggs and native ingredients. He counts Made’s group of restaurants, as well as the AFL Grand Final and many of Melbourne’s top hotels, among his clients. Trading for almost 30 years, Fresh Generation sources seasonal ingredients direct from Victorian growers, whose produce Katiforis says is fundamental to the success of the venues they deliver to. “There was at least one of our products on every single dish, from the starter through to the dessert,” says Katiforis.

This story is from the {{IssueName}} edition of {{MagazineName}}.

Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 9,000+ magazines and newspapers.

This story is from the {{IssueName}} edition of {{MagazineName}}.

Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 9,000+ magazines and newspapers.

MORE STORIES FROM GOURMET TRAVELLERView all
From personal experience
Gourmet Traveller

From personal experience

Former Hope St Radio chef ELLIE BOUHADANA invites you to gather your loved ones and enjoy an evening of good food and laughter with recipes from her new cookbook, Ellie's Table.

time-read
8 mins  |
September 2024
Kimberley Moulton
Gourmet Traveller

Kimberley Moulton

Kylie Kwong celebrates the individuals helping to grow a stronger community. This month, we applaud the international curator and Yorta Yorta woman who is shining a light on First Peoples.

time-read
3 mins  |
September 2024
Tom Wallace
Gourmet Traveller

Tom Wallace

We share a drop with the head winemaker for Devil's Corner, Tamar Ridge and Pirie Sparkling, a master of cool-climate grapes.

time-read
1 min  |
September 2024
Best in class
Gourmet Traveller

Best in class

The top drops to keep an eye out for on wine lists (and why they're worth the splurge)

time-read
3 mins  |
September 2024
A taste of refuge
Gourmet Traveller

A taste of refuge

Fleeing war and persecution, Australia's new arrivals push our food culture forward. DANI VALENT explores the contributions of the country's refugee communities.

time-read
4 mins  |
September 2024
BE OUR GUEST
Gourmet Traveller

BE OUR GUEST

Inspired by the sense of place conjured by Europe's Michelin-star restaurants, local restaurateurs are expanding their hospitality remit to include accommodation

time-read
6 mins  |
September 2024
Barcelona BUZZ
Gourmet Traveller

Barcelona BUZZ

A popular drawcard for digital nomads and expats alike, the Catalonian capital offers equal parts sophistication and fun. Here, DANI VALENT discovers the latest dining hotspots.

time-read
4 mins  |
September 2024
HEATHCOTE BOUND
Gourmet Traveller

HEATHCOTE BOUND

MICHAEL HARDEN hits the road to explore regional Victoria's Heathcote, home to this year's Best Destination Dining and a host of other delights.

time-read
4 mins  |
September 2024
The art of...relishing restaurants
Gourmet Traveller

The art of...relishing restaurants

Does working in hospitality make someone a better or worse diner

time-read
3 mins  |
September 2024
HEART AND SOUL
Gourmet Traveller

HEART AND SOUL

Not a vegetable but rather a flower bud that rises on a thistle, the artichoke is a complex delight. Its rewards are hard won; first you must get past the armour of petals and remove the hairy choke. Those who step up are rewarded with sweet and savoury creaminess and the elusive flavour of spring. Many of the recipes here begin with the same Provençal braise. Others call on the nuttiness of artichokes in their raw form. The results make pasta lighter and chicken brighter or can be fried to become a vessel for bold flavours all of which capture the levity of the season.

time-read
7 mins  |
September 2024