Shelter From the Storm

A Basecamp in Colorado’s San Juan Mountains

- Tess Weaver Strokes

PULLING A CHAMOIS ON BEFORE SUN rise requires motivation. Or at least the reassurance that a warm blob will soon rise above the horizon, heat the earth and guide your path. This morning we have no such reassurance. A thick, low ceiling of storm clouds and an ominous forecast call for every layer and piece of Gore-Tex we brought. Our packs are bursting with bars, water, shoe covers and extra gloves as we leave the comforts of the OPUS Hut, board our wet bikes and roll through the first of many puddles on an old mule trail east of the hut. Here, rides start at 11,600 feet above sea level. The single track quickly fades to scree, and I’m on and off my bike as we dip in and out of slide paths. Within an hour, we’re above tree line and fully exposed to the raindrops that start falling. The views of Colorado’s largest mountain range are spectacular, as are the black clouds above every peak in the distance. Our route dead-ends in Ruby Creek Cirque, an alpine amphitheater with small Ruby Lake as its drain. Our plan for today, our last of the trip, was to overland to the Wasatch trail and drop into Telluride. Rather than retracing yesterday’s long climb to Columbine Lake, we opted for a ridge scramble to save time. But now that we’re here, the ridge is less of a burly hike-a-bike and more of a 13,000-foot peak with super steep, rocky and slippery tundra. We stare at the beast of a climb as the drizzle turns into a downpour. The feeling of defeat is palpable. With no idea what awaits us on the other side and many more 13,000-foot ridges to climb en route to Telluride, we all know it’s time to pull the plug.