The Stars Have ALIGNED

Gucci's Cruise 2023 collection Cosmogonie', under former Creative Director Alessandro Michele, is an ode to inclusivity, history, and sheer creative genius.

- RADHIKA BHALLA

It was while reading an essay by political philosopher Hannah Arendt about the philosopher Walter Benjamin, that the former Creative Director of Gucci, Alessandro Michele, came across the term ‘Cosmogonie’. A word that means the study of the origin of the universe, or a part of it. And that became the starting point for the multiversed Gucci Cruise 2023 collection, that was held last year in Castel del Monte on the outskirts of Apulia, Italy...a 13th century citadel described as “the most fascinating castle built by [King] Frederick II.”

The term “fascinating” is certainly what the Gucci Cruise ’23 show can be described as... A compendium of inspiration, starting from Alessandro’s penchant for the 1970s with styles like wide-legged trousers with tailored, oversized coats, sequinned details, plush jackets worn with skirts and boots, large sunglasses, knitted sweaters belted over maxi skirts, and large hats for a sunny day out.

But contrast is the mother of creativity. And the House of Gucci has shown, over the past years, their love for surprising their discerning audiences. So, there are ample references to medieval Europe, like the water-like, silver, hooded chainmail; ruffs or millstone collars, and Renaissance head chains in silver with large earrings. It’s almost as though the Maison was going on an existential war with plain thinking, and even plain dressing. Which is why, alongside, we see modern elements like the blue-collared shirt worn with a tie, and denim jackets with delightful beadwork and studs, with matching miniskirts or diaphanous dresses that ask for sunny days by the beach and a disdain for moral policing.