Modern Family

Siti Kader and Shareen Ramli defy the conventional notions of a stepmother-daughter relationship through their love for food at Siti Li Dining.

- Emmilyn Yeoh

My Siti Li Dining experience starts with a heavenly whiff of butter and that fragrant mingling of meat, spices, and fire, the very moment I push through the doors of the Malay contemporary restaurant. Before me stand two familiar smiling faces, holding a tray of freshly fried curry puffs on a bed of banana leaves, as cups of frothy teh tarik in intricate ceramic cups sit on the table. These curry puffs hold a more symbolic status than its fame as a humble Malaysian pastry—they kick-started the story of Siti Li about a decade ago when Shareen Ramli got a taste of the culinary talents of Siti Kader, her stepmother. It was Shareen who insisted that Siti’s knowledge of Malay culture and cooking had to be shared with the greater community.

“Someone once told my sister, Noreen [Ramli], that only after 10 years in the food and beverage industry, will you realize you’ve finally grasped the knowledge of running a business,” Shareen says. Having grown up in a family that cultivated her passion for food, taking over the F&B operations of Ascott Kuala Lumpur from her father back in 2004, Shareen has been a female force in the male-dominant industry since the early noughties. “Food is a complex subject, and people are still very naive in the understanding of feeding people food and giving them an ‘experience’. It’s a big responsibility, and this translates to the decisions that you make. It’s not just about showcasing skills,” she expresses.

FOOD FOR THE SOUL