IN THE SPIRIT OF THIS ever-changing, slightly nerve-racking holiday covid season, the latest Ignacio Mattos venture, called Lodi, which opened a few months ago in Rockefeller Center, seems to have been designed with every possible occasion in mind. It’s an Italian espresso bar equipped with hissing coffee machines and a counter made of polished white marble where you can sip a bracing cup under your mask before ducking back into the cold. It’s a pastry shop, too, and a bakery that turns out six comforting varieties of Italian bread beginning at 8 a.m. There are eggs over toast for breakfast and a variety of to-go panini for lunch, and if you’re in the mood for a proper sit-down meal, you can dine outdoors with a view of the great Christmas tree or in the airy enclosed terrazza, which is filled with linen-covered tables set with glittering silver, just like in the best cafés of Milan.
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