Couture Matters

In anticipation of a freer and more hopeful year, haute couture for Spring/Summer 2021 is bringing us lashings of sartorial fantasy and ageless craft, as well as whimsy and escapism, writes Jing Zhang.

- Jing Zhang

CHANEL

Chanel’s Spring/Summer 2021 haute couture line-up aimed to recall a big family celebration (remember those?), with models descending the stairs of the Grand Palais and passing beneath arches of flowers. While other houses chose to go down an impossible fantasy route, Virginie Viard’s 1920s silhouettes were much more grounded. There were long dresses in ecru satin crêpe with a train, embroidered by Lesage with strass and pearl butterflies, plus a wing collar and shirt cuffs. There were long tweed button-downs, vests, trousers and skirts in gentle spring tones full of positivity. Long tulle skirts and 3D embroidered fabrics provided ethereal eye candy in pristine full white, ivory and black outfits.

Chanel also toyed with ideas of dance, freedom, celebrations and family gatherings, such as a wedding or a summer soirée where balmy air envelops the guests; thus came movement in petticoats and tiers of flounced crêpe georgette. The idea was also embodied by petticoats in motion, by the tiers of flounced crêpe georgette and two-tone Mary Jane shoes favoured by tango dancers, but all done in inimitable Chanel style.

FENDI

Kim Jones is certainly making an impact at Fendi. A line-up of supermodels and celebrities including Naomi Campbell, Bella Hadid, Cara Delevingne, Demi Moore and Kate Moss (along with her daughter Lila) wore gowns that were romantic and transcendent, with a large serving of the “renegade British sensibility of the Bloomsbury Group” alongside classical Italian beauty.