Haider Ackermann’s first collection for Berluti is elegant in form, luxurious in material and desirable in every way. But don’t mistake it as art. He tells Jane Ngiam right after stepping off the runway that true luxury ‘has to be comfort’
There was more than the usual air of excitement and tension as guests streamed into the Grand Palais in Paris. From serious-faced, conservatively dressed journalists crammed into the front-row seats to the gaggle of flamboyantly coloured, bejewelled celebrities piled into the centre of the runway, everyone was gathered to witness Haider Ackermann’s first collection for Berluti. His debut collection, after he was named the brand’s new creative director last September following the departure of Alessandro Sartori, was hotly anticipated not only because of the short time frame he had to put it together, but because his appointment was in itself lauded by fashion observers as a shrewd move by Antoine Arnault, chief executive of Berluti and scion of LVMH, which owns the brand.
Just days before, Ackermann had presented his own autumn/winter 2017 collection to an approving audience at Paris Men’s Fashion Week. The stress of producing two shows nearly back-to-back notwithstanding, the designer, known for his textured application and expert use of materials, managed to deliver on both fronts with aplomb.
This story is from the {{IssueName}} edition of {{MagazineName}}.
Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 9,000+ magazines and newspapers.
Already a subscriber ? Sign In
This story is from the {{IssueName}} edition of {{MagazineName}}.
Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 9,000+ magazines and newspapers.
Already a subscriber? Sign In
Louder Than You Think
It might not shout about itself, but among the world’s most influential people, Brunello Cucinelli is everywhere. Its co‑chairman and co‑creative director Carolina Cucinelli shares why the Italian brand’s high‑end ubiquity is built on its rock‑solid values
A New Era
La Prairie unveils the first product from its new collection, the Life Matrix Haute Rejuvenation Cream, an innovative creation that represents a new chapter in luxury skincare for those seeking to maintain healthy skin
Revolutionising Healthcare
Artificial intelligence is the future of healthcare, according to Asia Pacific Medical Technology Association CEO Harjit Gill. Ahead of its Asia Pacific MedTech Forum 2024, she outlines how a digitally driven healthcare system can improve access and outcomes for all
REBIRTH RENEWAL REWARD
Renowned artist Nari Ward gives Tatler a peek into his Harlem studio as he prepares for his solo exhibition in Seoul
Blurring Lines, Breaking Boundaries
Cartier’s creative director of jewellery and watches Marie-Laure Cérède on the maison’s commitment to creating statement-making timepieces for discerning luxury consumers
Tan Yin Ling
The co‑founder of Cloop on how her social enterprise is closing the loop on Singapore’s fashion waste
THE World IS YOUR Oyster
Tatler gets a taste of the luxe nomadic life aboard the world’s most exclusive residential ship as it sails from South Korea to Japan
HAUTE HOTELS
Find out where designers, models and fashionistas stay during Fashion Week
RAISING THE STEAKS
Hanwoo, Korea’s native beef, is celebrated not only for its flavourful meat but also its rich history and deep cultural significance. We explore the qualities and traditions that make Hanwoo a national treasure—and why the rest of the world needs to know about it
The Fashion Centennial
In celebration of its 100th anniversary, Loro Piana looks back on its legacy of exceptional fabrics, textile innovation and savoir faire in its fall‑winter 2024‑2025 women’s and men’s collections