A Taste Of India

Founder of the Popular Pondicheri Eatery in Houston and New York, Anita Jaisinghani (along with her daughter Ajna) has been revolutionising Indian food by giving it a contemporary appeal. She speaks to Tina Thakrar about being one of the most influential women in the food and restaurant circuit in the US.

The industrial-chic interiors of the Pondicheri restaurant in Houston are buzzing with sights, sounds, smells and tastes that aptly represent Indian fare. Chef and owner Anita Jaisinghani genially watches over her patrons, as they enjoy some of her delectable stuffed parathas, loaded thaalis, and green dosas. About 1600 km away, in the city of New York, is a similar picture. The Manhattan outlet of Pondicheri is equally bustling, while general manager and Anita’s daughter, Ajna, keeps an eye on the comings and goings. Plates of steaming samosas, ‘naanwiches’ and curries are ferried out of the kitchen, and are always sent back empty.

Frequently referred to as one of the most successful restaurants in Houston, Pondicheri was born in 2011 as a way to bring street and home Indian food to the masses, with a tasty twist. Anita’s brainchild, the modern Indian restaurant and bakery focuses on recreating traditional dishes from India while using local ingredients from Texas and New York.

It was one fateful day when she was 13 that Anita first entered the kitchen to help out her mother, who was unwell. As she pottered around with ingredients, she realised how much she enjoyed cooking. Born in Kutch and raised in various parts of Gujarat, Anita was destined, by her parents, for two things – to get a good education, and to marry early. Owing to this, she studied Microbiology (although her heart longed to study at a catering college), got married, and moved to Canada and then the US.