Jan Hein witnesses a moving salute to a fellow sailor.
Boat racing is the national sport on the tiny Caribbean island of Anguilla. Born from competition between engineless cargo schooners beating home from the Dominican Republic, today it is a serious sport raced in open sloops. Boatbuilders are held in high regard, their skills often handed father to son, and rock star status is guaranteed for the fastest of the fleet. Our little gaff ketch was anchored in Anguilla’s Road Bay when I noticed two trailered race boats appear on the beach, 28ft in length, painted like a fresh box of crayons. First one was dipped in the water, then the other. We were months ahead of Easter, when racing begins in earnest, and long past August Monday, when the entire island turns out in force. Why they were there was a mystery. The following day, curiosity hauled me ashore to watch crew hustling gear and ballast aboard. More came to raise the 50ft masts, set up rigs and bend on sweeping mains that downwind give the appearance of butterflies in flight. “Is there going to be a race?” I asked with expectation.
One of the riggers replied: “No. No race. We takin’ a fella on he’lass sail.”
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