It’s a Friday night at Arlo Grey, chef Kristen Kish’s renowned restaurant in Austin, Texas, and there is a gorgeous plate of pasta on the table. The mafaldine has been made in house earlier in the day, the ribbons of pasta served with a champignon sauce, pearl onions and parmesan. From the very first bite, Kish is hoping that diners have a vision of a cartoon hand dancing in their heads.
“It sounds fucked up and it sounds really weird, but this is my version of Hamburger Helper from growing up,” Kish says with a laugh. “I don’t know anyone who hasn’t had a boxed pasta in their life and didn’t like it. Everything stems from the stuff I grew up on, the things that feel comforting to me, but I spin them in a way that is ‘restaurant material.’”
Kish has been classically trained in the French tradition and she’s learned her craft alongside some of the most revered chefs of our time. Her bona fides also include writing a cookbook, hosting a show on the Travel Channel and winning her season of “Top Chef.” Kish has traveled the world and experienced countless flavors, but like so many of us, comfort will always be found in the tastes of the Grand Rapids suburb where she grew up.
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