Around five hours from Leh by road, in the remote valley of Ladakh, is the unexplored village of Garkone. Besides the breathtaking landscape of the place, what makes it unique is the fact that Garkone, along with a handful of other villages in the area, is home to a unique community called Brokpas.
The Brokpas (‘Brok’ means hillock and ‘Pa’ means inhabitant) believe themselves to be the last ‘pure specimens’ of the Aryan blood, and are regarded as the master race by many across the world. Legend has it that Brokpas are the direct descendants of the Dards, of Indo-Aryan stock left behind by Alexander the Great, when he abandoned his mission at the banks of the River Indus in 326 BCE.
It was to document the last remaining Brokpas that I had set off on this trip. The purpose was to collaborate with people from different artistic backgrounds to create a community-based project that aims to document the oral history, folklore, food, language, religion, myths, culture, and traditions of the Brokpa community.
The area inhabited by the Brokpas is laid out as a cluster of four villages—Garkone, Darchik, Dah and Hanu—perched on top of the rugged cliffs of Batalik sector, with the Indus flowing by. Three religions are primarily practised here—Islam, Buddhism, and Bon. Post the Kargil War, only two of the four Aryan villages now fall in the inner line drawn by the Indian Army, and are accessible by civilians after clearance from the Home Ministry. Garkone is about 13 kilometres south from the district headquarter of Kargil and 155 kilometres from Srinagar. It has 90 houses belonging to the seven original families.
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