CARIBBEAN
National Geographic Traveller (UK)|December 2021
The islands and territories that make up the Caribbean are justifiably renowned for their bountiful sunshine and beaches, but beyond the resorts lie an intoxicating variety of cultures, creatures and cuisine that rarely make the headlines. But with dozens of destinations to choose from, how to decide which to visit? We've selected 14 of the most engaging, where memorable adventures amid natural wonders await. From climbing the volcanoes of Dominica and snorkelling the pristine reefs of Bonaire to discovering the rums of Martinique and the colourful street art of Curaçao, this is a region that excels in the wild and the unexpected
NIGEL TISDALL
CARIBBEAN

ON THE COFFEE TRAIL JAMAICA

Some of the world's most prized coffee beans grow in the island's Blue Mountains, thriving in small plantations clinging to the volcanic peaks and dramatic valleys that characterise Jamaica's eastern side. Saddle up for a downhill cycle tour in search of the perfect caffeine hit

You need to be alert when cycling in Jamaica's Blue Mountains, but at least the hazards are refreshingly different to those in the UK. Seated on one of those perilous, reverse-pedal-to-brake bikes, I'm having to contend with darting mongooses, dim-witted goats, fallen mangoes and a steep, single-lane road that's so full of potholes it resembles a long, moth-eaten scarf.

In the space of 45 minutes, I'll pedal 12 miles and descend 2,700ft — but this is no adrenaline ride. That's because the descent from the hamlet of Section to the town of Spring Hill is so winding and eventful that there's no chance of me picking up speed, even though I've been equipped with a helmet, knee and elbow pads.

I'm not complaining, mind, for the point of this breezy ride is to admire the scenic beauty of one of the world's most famous coffee-growing regions.

Thanks to a pandemic-induced drop in visitor numbers, there are only seven of us doing this tour.

Nonetheless, we're escorted by four chirpy guides, kitted out with walkie-talkies and whistles and prone to yelling out handy warnings like “Big dip ahead!". In normal times, more than 20 cyclists might be making the ride, and it's commendably inclusive. "Children as young as six have done this,” explains manager Rohan McLeod, “and we also have tandem bikes that noncyclists can sit on".

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