Explore The Imprint The Dutch Left Behind On The Architecture Of Sri Lanka

Colonial times are long gone, but their witness marks can still be seen in Sri Lanka. The Dutch style of architecture stands tall amidst the modern milieu of the island nation, but with a re-imagined purpose. Arundhati Hazra goes on a heritage trail.

- Arundhati Hazra

“How does it differ from the British-era colonial buildings scattered throughout our country,” asked my friend, when I suggested we include Dutch colonial landmarks in our Sri Lankan itinerary. I confess that I had to Google the answer to his question. Dutch architecture often faces the same fate as Dutch colonial history—it is lumped together with, or overshadowed by its British counterpart. The Dutch conquered significant trading outposts in Asia, such as Sri Lanka, Indonesia, and India, before being displaced from most by the British. In the process, they left imprints of their architectural style across the continent, and elements of their heritage have been well-preserved in the Sri Lankan cities, Colombo and Galle, with the seaside Galle Fort being a notable UNESCO World Heritage Site.

We take an early train from Colombo to Galle. The route passes adjacent to the ocean, affording us ringside views of morning rituals—the hues of the sky changing from an inky blue to a light gold, and then a gentle cerulean, fishermen readying their fishing nets and boats, children sneaking a quick morning dip in the sea before school.

Galle has always been an important port in Sri Lanka, being an entrepôt for cinnamon trade. Western presence in Galle began with the arrival of the Portuguese in 1505, under Lourenço de Almeida, son of the first viceroy of Portuguese India. The Portuguese built the first fortification on the cliff and called it the Black Fort, because of the dark smoke of cannons and smithies that hung over the area. The Dutch captured the fort in 1640, and significantly expanded the design and fortifications. These were retained with minimal alterations by the British, who captured the fort in 1796.