Esma Marnewick misses..
KOGELBERG NATURE RESERVE
Picture this: fields of fynbos full of everlastings, red heath and pink Bot River proteas, interspersed with the odd pocket of indigenous forest; hiking trails winding up to craggy mountain peaks that offer sea views, and down to river pools where dragonflies hover over the water and a grey heron waits silently for a fish to swim past.
Sounds like an impossible place, right? Hidden deep in a wilderness area where only 4x4s and really fit hikers can reach? Nope. Kogelberg Nature Reserve is on the Overberg’s doorstep, and it’s one of my favourite places in the world.
The reserve is between Betty’s Bay and Kleinmond. Turn off the R44 and follow a 3 km gravel road to the reception office in a valley. Add a 1,5 km walk and you’ll have left all signs of civilisation behind.
During the lockdown, I missed two places in this 180 km² reserve in particular: a white-sand beach about 5 km down the Palmiet River Trail, big enough for the kids to build sandcastles on; and the 6 km Oudebosch/Leopard’s Gorge Trail, which goes through a magical forest and over a mountain to Harold Porter Botanical Garden. On top of the mountain there’s a stream with a pool big enough to swim in. I can’t wait to swim here again – the cold water takes your breath away until your body adjusts, then you notice the absolute silence all around, broken only by the splash of a Cape river frog.
Kogelberg, I hope to see you soon.
Cost: Conservation fee R50 per person; free with a Wild card.
Contact: 087 087 8250; 028 271 5138; capenature.co.za
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