ARCTIC ANTICS!

An icy adventure packed with wildlife and wilder spaces; zodiac rides; and surprises!

- SUBIR GHOSH

A sunny day and a blue sky in Longyearbyn, Norway, the northernmost city in the world, with a pier and a small airport. This township was started by coal miners (some active coal mines are still operational) and today, holds the Svalbard Global Seed Vault (a storage of seeds of diverse crops all over the world, acting as a backup facility). There were warnings posted for the presence of polar bears and people were not allowed to venture outside city limits without licensed guns or guides.

Near our intriguing hotel, Mary Anne's Polarrigg, Snowy Bunting (Plectrophenax nivalis) couples and groups of Barnacle Goose (Branta leucopsis) were a common sight. Close to the water's edge were ducks and gulls.

We finally boarded the M/V Hondius, our floating home for the next seven days and one of the oldest ice-strengthened cruise ships, a Polar Class 6 vessel. Here, we were introduced to the Expedition Leader Dr Eduardo and the expedition staff, all of whom were experts in nature and wildlife and would act as our friend, philosopher and guide.

The mandatory safety drill included donning life jackets and floatation suits, and finding the shortest way to the lifeboat boarding area, in case of an emergency. Finally there was a delightful but necessary animation video from AECO (the Association of Arctic Expedition Cruise Operators) briefing visitors on proper behaviour towards Arctic environment, people and wildlife.

Once in the sea, we came across Common Eiders (Somateria mollissima, meaning softest down body), Black-legged Kittiwakes (Rissa tridactyla), Black Guillemots or Tystie (Cepphus grille) and a Northern Fulmar (Fulmarus glacialis). Andrew, our birding instructor informed us that in general, birds in the Svalbard region had the blue colour morph of plumage, giving them a smoky grey-blue appearance.