SENSORY OVERLOAD
The New Yorker|September 30, 2024
A wild Danish restaurant combines avant-garde dining with immersive theatre.
REBECCA MEAD
SENSORY OVERLOAD

Rasmus Munk, the celebrated Danish chef, has such memorable eyes— they are a piercing blue, and often bloodshot—that when a waiter at Alchemist, his restaurant in Copenhagen, served me an eyeball, I recognized it immediately. The iris was f lecked with brown and rimmed with red, and the eye stared up at me unwaveringly, at least until I picked up a long-handled spoon and dug in. It had a gleaming gelatinous surface and was both salty and creamy, with a surprisingly nubby texture and a distinct taste of—what was it?—shrimp.

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