Amantaka, Luang Prabang
It is 8 am and I am steadily trekking up a soft path to the Kuang Si waterfall. My sneakers sink gently into the ground as I walk, but the sound of gushing water pulls my attention away from the mud rimming my soles. A few more steps and I arrive at one of the most spectacular sights I have ever witnessed.
From a 100-metre drop, crystalline spring water cascades over tiers of white limestone, flowing into a shallow pool glittering in teal. The colour of the water is difficult to describe-or believefor it looks almost like a sweet cocktail, a swirling mix of sky blue and sea green, capped with creamy foam. Behind this staggering view, a small army of Amantaka staff have laid out a lovely picnic: linen-covered tables laid with perfectly baked croissants, fruit, yoghurt and glistening pots of freshly brewed coffee and tea.
The pristine scenery and fresh air are a welcome change after the winding hour-long car ride through villages and rice paddies to get here from Luang Prabang. Fed from a nearby spring, the main majestic Kuang Si waterfall is joined by several smaller waterfalls that stretch for miles, each with its own pool of fresh water inviting passers-by for a dip. The surrounding rock can be dangerously slippery, so my experienced tour guide (hired and trained by Aman) is best-equipped to point out the pools that are safest for swimming in.
There is no fixed trail through the forest but the path is easy and pleasant to walk on. Soon, I find myself at a sprawling bear sanctuary, signposted with informative boards about the illegal wildlife trade in Laos, which has left its sun and moon bear populations devastatingly endangered. The Tat Kuang Si Bear Rescue Centre, a non-profit, rescues them from poachers and gives them lifelong care.
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