La Playa, the 119-year-old grande dame hotel of Carmel-by-the-Sea, sits on a slope overlooking the Pacific Ocean. But when I arrived on a misty night I in January, both fatigue and fog obscured the view.
A clerk offered me a warm chocolate chip cookie and assistance with my bags. I took him up on both and promptly went to bed. At 7 a.m. the next day, it was a different scene: the slate-silver sky awash in the dusty pastels of dawn. Sea lavender and foxgloves bordered the brick paths meandering through the property. Salt was heavy in the air.
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