The term “ultra-thin” once referred to watches measuring under 10mm thick — a remarkable feature, as such svelteness embodies technical prowess, comfort, and style, all in one sleek package. That is, until brands such as Bvlgari began redefining thinness to mean tickers that are leaner than a coin.
Between 2014 and 2022, Bvlgari set eight records for thinness in categories such as the world’s thinnest automatic tourbillon, chronograph, tourbillon and chronograph, minute repeater, and even a perpetual calendar. This year, on its 140th anniversary, Bvlgari breaks its ninth with the release of the Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC, its thinnest watch yet at an astonishing 1.75mm thickness. This surpasses its predecessor and former record-holder, the Octo Finissimo Ultra of 2022, which measured 1.80mm. Bvlgari’s release is a fully realised watch, available in two versions, each limited to 20 pieces, and every piece is COSC-certified.
This laudable feat was the result of a collaboration between Bvlgari’s own watchmaking team and movement specialist Concepto. As with many previous watches of such perilous dimensions, the Ultra COSC uses its case back as the movement’s main plate. To achieve that extra tenth of a millimetre reduction in height, the entire architecture of the watch, from the case to its individual components, was re-engineered, leading to the filing of eight patents.
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