Thirty years ago, Wine Spectator published the first major story about New Zealand wine. “Uncorking New Zealand: Time to Try Its Dazzling Whites” read the cover, with images of corks from Cloudy Bay and Coopers Creek. Back then, the two-island nation had about 15,000 acres planted, and sold just under 1 million cases worldwide. Since then, New Zealand has become one of the world’s most successful wine nations. Currently there are 102,000 acres planted, and 40 million cases were sold in 2023, according to the New Zealand Winegrowers. The tiny country produces less than 2% of the global wine supply, but it’s the world’s sixth-largest exporter of wine by value. Another thing that’s evolved? The image of corks no longer applies, as most vintners there eschew cork (only about 15% of the wines we review still use the closure).
Moreover, New Zealand’s vibrant, fresh, aromatic wines have changed the conversation about wine styles globally. Its zingy Sauvignon Blancs have been embraced by wine lovers, and I see that influence in crisp white wines all over the world. “Freshness and vibrancy [in wine] is a star which is always going to be growing because our food preferences are becoming cleaner and fresher,” points out Cloudy Bay winemaker Nikolai St. George. “It’s nice to see some varieties and some of the Old World countries that are being cleaned up and freeing up a few faults and tidying up now for sure.”
The reputation of New Zealand wines has been cemented in dependability and overdelivering for the price. Based on the 180 wines I have reviewed in blind tastings at our Napa office since my previous report (“Eyes on the Prize,” Oct. 31, 2023), New Zealand wines offer an exciting mix of varieties, regions and expressions, centered around cool-climate Sauvignon Blancs, Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays.
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