A remarkably versatile ingredient and good source of non-meat protein, paneer offers appealing mild milky tastes, won't melt when cooked and readily transmits myriad flavors. What's more, it's fun and easy to make at home.
At Junoon in New York City, one of America's finest Indian restaurants and a Wine Spectator Best of Award of Excellence recipient since 2015, chef Akshay Bhardwaj and his team make paneer several times a week.
"We like to [prepare paneer] in-house to ensure a consistent product," says Bhardwaj. "Our menus are about 40% vegetarian, so it gives us a lot of options." In the vein of "Bubba" Blue of "Forrest Gump," the chef ticks off some of paneer's many applications: marinated and baked in a tandoor oven, as the main component in curries, battered and fried, and minced or crumbled as a filling for various breads.
Bhardwaj learned to cook from his parents, Rajesh and Neena, both natives of New Delhi. Neena prepared six dinners a week; favorites such as mutter paneer and paneer bhurji were prominent in her repertoire. Rajesh founded Junoon in 2010.
In 2012, Bhardwaj began as an apprentice cook at Junoon, working his way up to executive chef by 2017. Focusing on creating traditional dishes with contemporary twists, he often consults with his parents, not to mention their large extended family, including well over a hundred cousins in India. The recipe at right is typical of his approach, with a classic marinade and not-so-ordinary dipping sauce.
David Gibbons is co-author of Mastering Cheese.
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