The 2019 vintage capped a steady years-long rise for California Pinot Noir by setting a benchmark for quality. It was the perfect convergence of factors, as a generation of winemakers with growing experience took advantage of a maturing and diverse vineyard base under ideal conditions. The 2020 season brought that upward trajectory to a crashing halt, due to the wildfires that plagued harvesttime. Yet the newly released 2021 vintage easily bridges the gap, nudging the bar a notch higher from 2019 and putting Pinot Noir back on track in the Golden State.
The best 2021s not only show the purity and drive of their 2019 counterparts but also feature greater concentration, structure and definition, thanks to a crop of tiny, concentrated, thick-skinned berries that resulted from the season's considerable drought. Although quality is high across the board, the drought also meant that many growers' yields were down 10% to 15%, with some reporting drops of up to 50%.
"Oof," says Chris Hyde, who along with his father Larry farms their eponymous family vineyard in Carneros. "I love the '21s for everything except the yields. We brought in just 1.5 tons per acre across the vineyardour lowest ever."
Since my previous report on Pinot Noir in our Sept. 30, 2022, issue, I have reviewed more than 560 Pinot Noir bottlings via blind tastings at our Napa office. Of those, 28 earn classic ratings of 95 points or higher on Wine Spectator's 100-point scale, while nearly 350 additional wines achieved outstanding scores of 90 to 94 points. It's an impressive performance overall, elevated by the strength of the 2021s, which account for just more than half of the wines under review.
This story is from the {{IssueName}} edition of {{MagazineName}}.
Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 9,000+ magazines and newspapers.
Already a subscriber ? Sign In
This story is from the {{IssueName}} edition of {{MagazineName}}.
Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 9,000+ magazines and newspapers.
Already a subscriber? Sign In
Shipwrecked Champagne Hoard Discovered Near Sweden
It sometimes feels like wine has a habit of falling into the briny deep. On July 23, Polish wreck diver and underwater photographer Tomasz Stachura announced that he and his Baltictech team had discovered the wreck of a 19th-century sailing ship near Öland, an island off the coast of Sweden—and it was crammed with bottles of Champagne and mineral water.
Openings: The Latest in Napa Tasting
Several new tasting options have opened in Napa Valley, particularly in downtown Napa where wineries are launching satellite tasting rooms. Standing out from the crowd means trying new approaches. Here are some highlights:
War in Middle East Affects Vintners
The 2024 harvest at Israel’s Dalton Winery was punctuated by nonstop rocket and drone attacks launched from just across the border in Hezbollah-controlled southern Lebanon.
Wineries Sue Napa County in Federal Court
Three Napa wineries filed a joint lawsuit in federal court in September alleging that Napa County officials violated their constitutional rights.
Savoring Persimmon Season
For many, persimmons are an enigma ingredient. Chef David Nayfeld of Award of Excellence-winning Che Fico in San Francisco and its Best of Award of Excellence sibling dangling persimmons off the tree with a stick at a childhood friend's house before realizing what they were. \"I remember his parents saying, 'Hey, don't hit the persimmons, those are food!\"\"
Tasting Plate: A German Six-Pack
Though it boasts Western Europe’s largest population and biggest economy, Germany is nowhere near the cheese juggernaut its neighbors Switzerland and France are. That said, the Germans love their fine cheeses, and they do turn out some excellent ones, fortunately including more than a handful that are currently available here in the U.S.
Gigondas Blanc Est Arrivé!
Ask winemakers in the Southern Rhône to name the most exciting white grape in their region and you will hear a growing number of them say \"Clairette.\"
Kistler's DARKER SIDE
Russian River Valley Pinot Noir ups the ante at the house that Chardonnay built
THE SPLENDOR OF CHAMPAGNE
THE REGION'S LEADING PRODUCERS DELIVER HIGH QUALITY AMID A DIVERSE RANGE OF STYLES
MICHAEL BATTERBERRY: 1932-2010 Gourmet, Journalist, Gentleman
Before Food Network, Top Chef or Yelp ... before the term “foodie\" ... before tomatoes were heirloom and sushi was fast food... back when fancy restaurants were always French... Michael Batterberry and his wife, Ariane, were working to celebrate and elevate the status of American chefs and international cuisine. Julie Mautner, Food Arts' former executive editor, looks at the life and legacy of her late mentor, affectionately known as The Bat.
