Turn a Natural Edged Bowl

Turning a live edge bowl is the perfect way to showcase a special piece of wood, such as this Burr Elm.

- Jimmy Clewes

Turning a live-edge piece of wood while keeping the natural edge and bark intact can be tricky. But, with careful planning and cuts, you can be left with a stunning piece.

Prep & Mount

To mount the blank, I prefer to drill a 1" hole into the top of the piece with a Forstner bit and use a 4-prong drive, driven in with a mallet. This is relatively safe as the 4 prongs are in a hole in solid wood.

I mark the center of the base to locate the revolving center. (Note: I would advise against using a center directly in the bark of any natural edge. If the bark loosens or gives when turning, the piece could come off the lathe). The tailstock and revolving center are used to support the bowl blank between centers. Be sure to avoid placing the blank between the centers and forcing the 4 prongs into the wood with the tailstock. This could result in damage to the bearings in the revolving center and headstock.

True Up & Get Started

When the piece is mounted in the lathe, I like to true up the blank using a push cut with an Irish grind bowl gouge. This particular grind has several names: Irish grind, Celtric grind, Ellsworth Grind, and Swept-back wing grind. They all basically have the wings swept back to varying degrees.

In order to get a smooth surface after the cut, make sure that the bevel is parallel to the cut you are making and the bevel is floating on the surface behind the cut. Photo 3 shows the appropriate tool position.

1-2 On an uneven surface, drilling a hole in the blank and driving in a prong drive is a secure way to hold the blank.

If the surface is not smooth after the cut, more than likley the bel is not rubbing. Even a hair will make a difference.

3 True up the outside of the blank using a push cut.

4 Remove some excess weight by starting to shape the bottom.

5 A draw cut removes a lot of material quickly, but is not a clean cut.