YAMAMOTO'S HEADQUARTERS in Paris sits in a prestigious-looking six-story stone building on a narrow street in the bustling east end of Le Marais. The windows are frosted and there are no obvious markings on the exterior. But when you swing open the large door and enter, there is an unmistakable Yohji-ness present, even in the sparsely appointed, mostly concrete foyer. It's as if you'd walked into a Parisian salon in the '20s or an American bowling alley in the '80s: You're enveloped in a haze of cigarette smoke. This, I thought, must mean that Yohji is here.
Indeed, he was. In a back corner of the sprawling ground-floor showroom, the godfather of avant-garde fashion sat at a small, round table with a few associates from his Tokyo office, quietly smoking a cigarette. Racks of clothing-most in his signature black-filled the space, along with tables swarming with buyers and sales agents. Two days before, this room had been converted into a runway where Yamamoto presented his latest collection, the men's autumn-winter 2023 line. As always, the show was packed. He's one of the few designers who draws not just the usual industry insiders or celebrity gapers but black-clad hordes of devoted fans. These are Yamamoto's murder of crows, or karasu-zoku (crow tribe), the Japanese term assigned to them in the '80s, when his fame and influence reached its first fever pitch.
Yamamoto, who is 79, has always been a rebel, unconventional and uncompromising at his core, but he remains the creative force behind a significant global fashion brand, and with the Paris Fashion Week show and after-party behind him, business had commenced. The showroom was as bustling as it would have been in the '80s or '90s. Seated facing out into the lively room, Yamamoto appeared to be conducting an orchestra of commerce, the cigarette his baton.
This story is from the {{IssueName}} edition of {{MagazineName}}.
Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 9,000+ magazines and newspapers.
Already a subscriber ? Sign In
This story is from the {{IssueName}} edition of {{MagazineName}}.
Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 9,000+ magazines and newspapers.
Already a subscriber? Sign In
THE FUTURE SOUNDS LIKE AT EEZ
The Coachella-slaying, multi-language-singing, genre-obliterating members of Ateez are quickly becoming load-bearing stars of our global pop universe.
DEMNA UNMASKED
He's the most influential designer of the past decade. He's also the most controversial. Now the creative director of Balenciaga is exploring a surprising source of inspiration: happiness. GQ's Samuel Hine witnesses the dawn of Demna's new era, in Paris, New York, and Shanghai. Photographs by Jason Nocito.
Inside the undercover adventures of a full-time fraud sleuth.
HOW TO MAKE A FORTUNE AS A PROFESSIONAL WHISTLE-BLOWER
A LIFE OF FASHION
In an extensive conversation, the menswear icon discusses his rise, his mistakes, his triumphs, his retirement, and what the future holds for him and his beloved brand.
IN THE SOUTH OF FRANCE WITH GEORGE & BRAD
They've spent three decades living intertwined lives at the inconceivably glamorous height of Hollywood. Now, having crossed the threshold of 60, they're more comfortable than ever throwing bombs, dispensing hard-won wisdom, and, yes, arguing about who had the better mullet in the '80s.
ALEXANDER THE GRITTY
One of India's most creative chefs comes of age.
Penning History
Montblanc marks 100 years of its iconic Meisterstück with new writing instruments inspired by the 1924 Olympic Games.
Royal Enfield Forges a New Path
Say hello to the company's most cutting-edge roadster.
Arooj Aftab Owns the Night
The Grammy Award-winning artist, fresh off a Glastonbury set, speaks to GQ about her new album, Night Reign, from the ideas that led to its conception to its genre-defying collabs with Elvis Costello, Kaki King and more.
Louis Vuitton's New Beat
The luxury maison's latest addition to the Tambour line reiterates its commitment to watchmaking and craftsmanship.