It's derby day. The most anticipated clash of Indian football. With just half an hour away from the kickoff, the giant cauldron that Salt Lake Stadium still looks somewhat empty - there's an eerie silence in thick white light - and you start wondering if there's a dip in the madness and mythology associated with the Kolkata Derby. "No, the passion is still as strong as it has ever been," tells a Mohun Bagan supporter as he takes the last drag of his cigarette and stomps the butt with his leather boot. Sports fans' affinity for superlatives means you can't always trust their assessment at face value, but you can always trust what unfolds before your eyes. At the stroke of the kick-off, the stadium that only moments ago was silent and soulless acquired a religious fervour, a giant uplifting bowl of celebration.
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