Passion on a Plate
Tatler Malaysia|July 2022
We all love a good meal, especially when made by those who put a little love into it. And it is passion that drives these executive chefs who push the boundaries of what food can be, and are devoted to crafting stories behind the dishes they create
Elizabeth Soong
Passion on a Plate

MAKOTO SAITO SAM 

Sushi Hibiki

At Sushi Hibiki’s sushi counter, Tokyo native Makoto Saito Sam is in his element, brandishing each seafood serving with an infectious energy that’s hard to resist. As restaurant owner and chef, Saito believes a good sushi chef must not only be skilled but also able to build rapport with his customers. He picked up this very important tip from his first job at a sushi restaurant where he observed his sushi master making the effort to learn about the preferences and moods of his regular diners.

“My sushi master told me, anybody can learn the skill to make sushi after one or two years. But observation skills? Even ten years is not enough,” says the affable chef who sharpened his craft at this restaurant for 20 years since he was 15.

Specialising in the classic Edo-style technique of preparing sushi, his work has taken him across several cities spanning Sydney, Rome, Tel Aviv then finally Kuala Lumpur where he’s been for the past six years.

Apart from ensuring his customers are comfortable and well taken care of, Saito believes in keeping his food simple and authentic; it’s all down to the expert handling of the ingredients from the fish to the rice and the seasoning that drives up the umami factor—and keeps customers coming back for more.

Most recently, as the cofounder of the Sushi Summit Kuala Lumpur, he organised a collaborative sushi fest at APW Bangsar that brought together a band of master sushi chefs of varying expertise to celebrate the art of sushi in its purest form.

Makoto Saito Sam wears Sacoor Brothers blazer

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