METAMORPHOSIS

On the 75th anniversary of its iconic Serpenti, Bulgari unravels the roots of this signature motif that has continuously evolved over the years, together with the women who wear it

- Annabel Tan

Mention Bulgari and its Serpenti icon inevitably comes to mind. The serpent is firmly woven in with the brand’s history and has become synonymous with the Roman jeweller today, 75 years since it was first introduced on a jewellery watch designed to be wrapped around the wrist. At that time in 1948, the image of the Serpenti was rather stylised; its linked body was crafted using the revolutionary Tubogas technique of metalworking, which gave the bracelet flexibility and suppleness by wrapping strips of gold around a coiled spring without soldering. It was not only an indication of Bulgari’s innovative spirit, but also foreshadowed the transformative, future‑oriented nature of the Serpenti that was to come.

In religion and mythology, snakes and serpents have long been symbols of rebirth and renewal, as they are believed to have transformative and regenerative powers due to their ability to shed skin. Bulgari’s Serpenti has adopted this ever‑changing nature, taking shape in various forms throughout the course of its existence.

In the 1950s, Bulgari started to give the serpent a more lifelike, figurative style, with its precious head embellished with ruby, emerald or diamond eyes. This made way for the true expression of the motif in the 1960s, when the serpent took on various personalities through the use of colourful gemstones and enamels on its scales. It was during this era of innovation that the maison created the first Serpenti secret jewellery watches, where the dial is hidden within the head of the snake.