MOVING MOUNTAINS
THE WEEK India|December 03, 2023
A tunnel collapse in Uttarakhand has triggered an interesting interplay of development, national security, environmental concerns and faith
SANJIB KR BARUAH/UTTARKASHI
MOVING MOUNTAINS

Myths, folklore and legends have an extraordinary place in India. More so in the Himalayan region up north, especially in Uttarakhand, considered 'Dev Bhoomi' or the land of the gods. The sudden collapse of an under-construction 'strategic' tunnel to connect Silkyara with Barkot, two one-horse highway settlements in Uttarkashi district on November 12 has led to certain uneasiness among locals. They point at divine wrath. On completion, the tunnel-part of the Char Dham Pariyojana, the highway project linking the four main shrines of Uttarakhand-would connect Gangotri and Yamunotri much more easily, with pilgrims not having to traverse the Radi pass that dominates the surrounding mountainous geography.

Huddled in an animated conversation with his friends on why the tunnel caved in, trapping 41 workers, Madan Bhandari, a wiry local from nearby Chinyalisour, told THE WEEK: "There was a temple dedicated to Baba Baukh Naag, our main deity, on the spot where the tunnel begins from the Silkyara side. Despite our reservations, the temple was dismantled without the necessary religious ceremonies. And the result is there for everyone to see. Obstacles have come up in the tunnel work at every step. Unless quickly addressed, it will lead to more such disasters."

Bhandari is at the tunnel site with four of his friends to witness the rescue operations. "The trapped workers are alive only because of the benevolence of Baba Baukh Naag. They will come out alive if Baba is pacified." Bhandari points towards the peak that overlooks the tunnel site. "That is where the main Baukh Naag temple is located. Every three years a grand fair is held where locals climb up the peak to pay obeisance to the deity," he said. Garwalis worship Baba Baukh Naag as one of the manifestations of Shiva.

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