Talented chef held captive by menu cut off in mid flow
Evening Standard|May 08, 2024
THE word, I suppose, is perplexed. Or perhaps it’s baffled. Or maybe it ’s just “why?” Turns of phrase are usually a strong suit but in its way, July has left me speechless. Or at least indecisive.
Talented chef held captive by menu cut off in mid flow

July
10 Charlotte Street, W1T 2LT. Meal for two plus drinks and service, about £170. Open Monday to Saturday from 8am-11pm (9am Saturdays); july.london

July is a badly named, poorly laid-out place in Fitzrovia, billed as a restaurant but probably just a wine bar in disguise. Excellent, expensive wine, and food that’s not beautiful — it’s too simple for that — but largely beautifully done. Stuff most want to eat: deep-fried cheese with mustard and cornichons, sausage with sauerkraut, chocolate and hazelnut cake. The crowd is cool, albeit with a goes-on-hikes vibe — clad in Patagonia, but likes Khruangbin, that sort of thing. There’s a lot to love. Well, actually, that’s the snag: what there is, is lovable. There’s just not much of it.

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