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SARAH OVERTON DISCOVERS ANOTHER SIDE OF THE RUGGEDLY BEAUTIFUL VOLCANIC ISLAND OF TENERIFE

MORE than two million of us Brits take the four-hour flight to Tenerife each year to bask in its subtropical climate.

But if you don't venture beyond the bright lights of the tourist zones, you're missing out on a stunning side of the biggest Canary Island.

Sleepy Spanish towns, spectacular mountain scenery, restaurants loved by locals, not to mention sublime stargazing and adventures on the high seas are there to be discovered, if you can tear yourself away from your sunlounger.

So I set out on a trip to sample real island life with local guide Jaime Munoz from Feel Tenerife tour company, whose mission it is to spread the word about wonders to be found in less  visited areas. My first destination was San Cristobal de La Laguna in the north, the first colonial settlement in Tenerife that became a UNESCO world heritage site in 1999.

It was founded in the 1400s and was the original capital city. Its grid street layout provided a model for many colonial towns in the area. It's a lovely town to just sit sipping coffee in the sunshine and watch the world go by, or wander around taking in the architecture, historic buildings, courtyards and pastel coloured houses.

The daily food market is a real treat for the senses too.

I stayed at the four-star Hotel Laguna Nivaria, an impressive 16th-century mansion in the heart of the old town, overlooking the leafy main square.

The breakfast buffet leaves you spoilt for choice while dinner in the restaurant serves up fresh local dishes the pork fillet in a moreish dark Pedro Ximenez sherry wine reduction was amazing.

A 20-minute drive out of La Laguna takes you into the mountains of Anaga Rural Park with its lush laurel forests and spectacular views of the island and sea beyond.

Covering 14,500 hectares, there is a vast network of trails and paths and a route down to Taganana village where you can finish with a dip in the sea.