IT was irresistibly drawn to the U.S. I had seen some of the country on previous visits, but there were countless more places and National Parks I was itching to explore. What better way to do it than on two wheels? I had a motorcycle license, but limited riding experience. Living in London at the time, I had a small naked bike to get around, but it was mainly for commuting. I rarely rode it for longer than an hour. I also didn't have the slightest idea of what it would be like to travel on a motorbike; I had never even made a proper day trip on one. Despite all that, I somehow managed to connect with someone in Oregon who was willing to sell me a BMW F800 GS, fully set up for off-roading.
When I started working out the trip's details, I hadn't planned on off-roading. I didn't know I would be riding through deep volcanic ash in Nicaragua only a few months later, crossing rivers in Guatemala, and getting caught in flash floods. I didn't know that dirt roads would replace tarmac and become the new normal. After all, I still didn't know exactly where I was going, but I now had an adventure bike, and I knew the ride would start in Oregon.
The ride out of the long gravel driveway took forever. But once on the road, I felt I could manage the GS. It was incredibly comfortable compared to my small bike. I liked the riding position, and I decided we would be okay. The guy who sold it must have realized that we were utterly unprepared. So, he put us in touch with some of his friends in Idaho, who invited us for some off-road training.
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