RIO DE JANEIRO

Few cities are as naturally spectacular as Rio. Flanked by the Atlantic and Guanabara Bay, backed by jungle-furred peaks and strung together with miles of creamy sand, this is a place of singular beauty. The beachside neighbourhoods are the obvious areas to stay: legendary Copacabana, quieter Leme and trendier Ipanema, the gateway to Rio's western beaches. Don't write off inland, though. over the past decade, a new, boutiquestyle hotel scene has emerged. High above the historic centre, Santa Teresa is Rio's boho bastion. Directly below is nightlife-central Lapa. Whether on the coast or mid-city, Rio's hotel scene gives you the best of both worlds.

- JULIA BUCKLEY

Best for boho style

HOTEL SANTA TERESA

When Amy Winehouse picked a hotel for her Rio stay, she passed up the city's super-luxe beachfront properties for this coffee farm-turned-relaxed retreat in arty Santa Teresa. Sacks of coffee beans sit in the corridors, trees brush against the windows and in the simple bedrooms, cow hides cover the floorboards. In a garden bursting with tropical greenery, you'll find a pool and a bar terrace overlooking Rio's historic centre and Guanabara Bay. The hotel spills down the hillside, and one level below is pan-South American restaurant Térèze and the atmospheric Bar dos Descasados. Here, banquettes shelter behind a rustic stone colonnade and guests enjoy live comedy, jazz and Brazilian music. Note that there are no lifts.

ROOMS: From R$1,670 (£265), B&B.

santateresahotelrio.com

Best for views

FAIRMONT RIO DE JANEIRO COPACABANA

Unquestionably the best digs on Copacabana, the Fairmont opened in 2019, turning the former Sofitel - two conjoined beehive-like tower blocks into a world-class hotel. All 375 rooms have balconies, and even the entry level 'city view' categories snatch glimpses of the ocean. Rooms are classic discreet luxury, with polished wood floors, a mid-century feel to the furniture, and a few marine accents in the headboards or armchairs, echoing the view. Breakfast is served poolside, looking across the curve of Copacabana towards Sugarloaf Mountain. In addition to the two pools, there's a beach club just across the street, where the quietest and cleanest part of Copacabana meets Ipanema. Upgrading to a Fairmont Gold room (from around £50) nets you access to a VIP lounge with free evening food and drink. ROOMS: From R$1,680 (£270), B&B. fairmont.com