IF SOMEONE SHOUTED "Virginia" in the middle of a word-association game, "fine wine" might not be your first response. Even some of the state's winemakers confessed to me that they had, in the past, found many Virginian wines forgettable-or, in some cases, undrinkable. Oh, how times have changed.
Being an underestimated wine region for so many years has turned out to be one of Virginia's superpowers. If all eyes have been focused on Napa Valley or the Bordeaux region of France, Virginia's wines land somewhere in the middle, geographically and stylistically. Young winemakers, especially, have been expanding their knowledge and skills and creating an identity found only there.
The industry's growth is astounding: in the mid 1990s, there were about 50 wineries in Virginia; there are now around 300, with more than 4,000 acres under cultivation. Wine contributes more than $1.7 billion to the state's economy, not only from sales but also from visitor experiences at wineries, hotels, and restaurants. I wanted to find out if the Virginia wine story was about more than just quantity. We all know the slogan "Virginia Is for Lovers." But is it for wine lovers?
Every wine trip needs a home base, and for the first leg of my journey, mine was Salamander Middleburg (doubles from $555), less than 50 miles west of Washington, D.C. Middleburg is not just wine country; it's also the heart of Virginia's equestrian culture, and Salamander-stately and elegant, with a patina of old money-is a hymn to all things equine. The walls are lined with on-theme artwork, and guests can ride horses from the fully equipped stables. As riders strutted through the lobby in exquisite gear, I couldn't help wondering: Have I been transported to a Ralph Lauren fashion show?
But you don't need to be a member of the horsey set to enjoy a stay at Salamander. There's a gym, a spa, bikes available to borrow-and an entire wine region on your doorstep to explore.
This story is from the {{IssueName}} edition of {{MagazineName}}.
Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 9,000+ magazines and newspapers.
Already a subscriber ? Sign In
This story is from the {{IssueName}} edition of {{MagazineName}}.
Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 9,000+ magazines and newspapers.
Already a subscriber? Sign In
EARTHLY DELIGHTS
Come fall, the Italian region of Umbria is a lush, fertile inland oasis. Peter Terzian reaps a bounty of culinary and cultural pleasures.
RUNNER'S HIGH
Some travelers like to move at a faster clip. Alexandra Kleeman crosses the peaks and pastures of Ireland with a group of women who take life in stride.
THE WILDEST ISLE
Compared with its neighbors, the island of Hawaii is bigger, more untamed-and, at times, unpredictable. With her family in tow, Flora Stubbs finds the perfect balance between relaxation and rugged adventure.
A ticket to the top of the world
On a luxurious train tour of Peru, Lake Titicaca and Machu Picchu are the headline acts. But, as Monisha Rajesh discovers, witnessing everyday life from the rails can be every bit as memorable.
Bonjour la France
When an American writer retires in Brittany, she learns how to belong again.
Chills and Thrills
On an Alaskan wilderness adventure, Sarah Manguso and her son learn the elements of survival.
Wheels on Fire
With its blazing fall colors and picturesque villages, the Japanese island of Kyushu was made for cycling.
Down to Earth
Pottery runs deep in Santa Fe, from hallowed Pueblo collections to clay-throwing pubs.
Steel City Shining
A tech boom; a thriving cultural scene; destination dining. Can this be... Pittsburgh?
HOPE SPRINGS ETERNAL
This cute Pennsylvania town is brimming with artistic and cultural energy.
