I welcomed the opportunity to speak English again at the border between Ghana and francophone Ivory Coast. I had a friendly conversation with the border offiers (and one marriage proposal)
before I was connected with a fixer. I decided not to fight it, since I knew it would be a challenge to get the Temporary Import Permit (TIP) for my van, BlueBelle.
It took a couple of hours of explaining that I wasn’t planning to become an illegal migrant, nor was I planning to sell my van in Ghana, before a TIP was granted and I was allowed into the country, the seventh on my journey so far.
It was the middle of February 2019 and I’d been on the road for a little under three months. My experiences and challenges had been numerous, and I needed a break. It was harmattan season, and I was desperate for any kind of cool breeze. Harmattan is the offshore wind that blows from the Sahara and turns the sky hazy with dust, which also intensifies the humidity.
The Hideout Lodge was a 125 km drive from the border post. For a small fee, I was allowed to set up in their empty car park and use the communal ablutions. Best of all, the lodge was right next to the beach, with a few palm trees to offer shade. I occasionally ate a meal at their restaurant or bought a cold drink from the bar, but I mostly kept to myself, tidied, did laundry and gave myself time not to worry about what came next. The staff found my self-imposed isolation most peculiar and occasionally came to check that I was okay.
This story is from the {{IssueName}} edition of {{MagazineName}}.
Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 9,000+ magazines and newspapers.
Already a subscriber ? Sign In
This story is from the {{IssueName}} edition of {{MagazineName}}.
Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 9,000+ magazines and newspapers.
Already a subscriber? Sign In
Rolling out the big guns
If you're still scanning the horizon for a Chinese automotive invasion you're looking the wrong way. It's already happening, and the new GWM Tank is the off-road spearhead into the highly lucrative and hotly contested lifestyle market.
TAKE A HIKE
The beautiful agony of Tienuurkop
Time out in Dullies
A long weekend in Dullstroom is just long enough to make you realise you need to spend several more weekends here! There's food, drink, art and action in abundance. Here's your guide.
Gallivanting in the Galápagos!
The Galápagos Islands are on many a traveller's wish list. They were on Hanlie and Vivian Gericke's too, even though the price of visiting made their eyes water. Was it worth it? Read on...
BURCHELL AND THE COUNTRY OF THE BUSHMEN
How many times have you driven through a landscape and wished you could have seen it centuries ago? In 1811, the English artist and explorer, William John Burchell, travelled through South Africa. Join us as we follow in his footsteps.
Long live the Hibiscus Coast
The KZN South Coast is a national treasure. It's still the place to go if you want a classic seaside holiday complete with warm waves, cold beer, soft serve and good vibes. Here's your guide.
The island at the end of the earth
Imagine adlace-with the cleanest air arid:the clearest seawater, where_no human.oranimabwants to:harm you: A placewhere the climates balmy. year-round:-with a sekrhistory ahd wwild scenery. A place like this:exist8” and it’s called St Helena.
A day on the road
You never know what the road will bring. Toast Coetzer heads south on the N1 and discovers South Africa.
The wilder shore
The final leg of a 30-day trek across East Africa sees lan Tyrer and the Africa - Wild & Untamed crew explore both shores of Lake Malawi. Get ready for an overloaded ferry, a croc attack and being surrounded by elephants...
A river runs through it
Sabie is onthe Drakensberg escaromentialongMpumalanga’s famous Panorama Route. Want a weekend away surrounded by forests and waterfalls? Here's wnat you need to know.