We start our W adventure in the old Hanseatic port of Bergen, where red and ochre painted wharves glow against blue skies. I'm sailing on the Viking Venus, a luxurious vessel that ploughs through a wind-blasted Norwegian Sea to the Arctic Circle, where weather systems are fast and ferocious. Cruising allows me to see the country in all its raw, elemental grandeur, while maxing out on koselig - the Norwegian concept of embracing winter by being cosy, comfortable and sociable. Once on board, I'm soon snuggled under a blanket in the lounge, glued to the drama of snow-draped fjords passing by the window.
Journey to the north
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