Joyce Hoffman, 71

1965 and 1966 World Champion, San Juan Capistrano

- Ashtyn Douglas

I think surfing can get better with age. I probably love it more now than I did when I was 18, even though I’m not able to surf the way I used to.

Surfing without crowds is the best.

In the ‘60s, there were so few people surfing that you almost always knew everyone out in the lineup. It was way more laid back. It was what you would consider the ideal of what surfing is and could be. I’d go back to my 40-pound, 9-foot Terry Martin board if I could have Trestles with only four other people out again.

It can be tough being a female competitive surfer.

We were definitely second-class citizens when I was competing. All the women’s finals were set for the middle of the afternoon when Huntington Beach was blowing 20 knots and the tide was low. We always got the leftovers, but that was just the time we were living in.

It’s a challenge being in the spotlight as a teenager.

I always wanted to reflect well on the sport of surfing, so I took whatever limited amount of fame I had seriously and I tried to comport myself as best I could. But it wasn’t like fame nowadays. I would imagine it’s more difficult being in the spotlight today because everything is so much more invasive.

A lot of where you are is just luck.