With aging, surfing is even more precious. Every sparkling drop of water helps the stoke fire burn bright.
Today, I mix it up more with swimming, bodysurfing, riding my surf mats and surfing my fishes and gliders. Also, just getting in the water, being weightless allows us to keep our bodies loose and free. And breathing in the air just above the ocean surface, filled with negative ions is healing for the mind, lungs and heart.
The variety of boards being ridden today is refreshing. Short, long, with an array of bottoms and fins—and even finless—configurations. It’s like in the ‘60s and ‘70s when quantum leaps were made with surfboard design and wave riding that had never been seen before. Pushing limits with tiny, downrail edge boards, small single-fin hulls, twin fins, the Fish, Greenough riding his flex spoons and carving new lines, and my husband Steve evolving his Pendoflex high-speed torque tails. I enjoy seeing surfers and shapers today experimenting in the same ways and with new materials.
この記事は Surfer の Volume 60, Issue 2 版に掲載されています。
7 日間の Magzter GOLD 無料トライアルを開始して、何千もの厳選されたプレミアム ストーリー、9,000 以上の雑誌や新聞にアクセスしてください。
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この記事は Surfer の Volume 60, Issue 2 版に掲載されています。
7 日間の Magzter GOLD 無料トライアルを開始して、何千もの厳選されたプレミアム ストーリー、9,000 以上の雑誌や新聞にアクセスしてください。
すでに購読者です? サインイン
60 Years Ahead
We had a whole plan for this year. Funny, right? Surfer's 60 year anniversary volume was going to be filled with stories nodding to SURFER’s past, with cover concepts paying homage to the magazine’s most iconic imagery. Our new Page One depicts something that’s never happened in surfing before, let alone on a prior SURFER cover. And our table of contents was completely scrapped and replaced as we reacted to the fizzing, sparking, roiling world around us. In other words, 2020 happened to SURFER, just like it happened to you.
A Few Things We Got Horribly Wrong
You don’t make 60 years of magazines without dropping some balls. Here are a few
THE LGBTQ+ WAVE
Surf culture has a long history of marginalizing the LGBTQ+ community, but a new generation of queer surfers is working to change that
For Generations to Come
Rockaway’s Lou Harris is spreading the stoke to Black youth and leading surfers in paddling out for racial justice
Christina Koch, 41
Texas surfer, NASA astronaut, record holder for the longest continuous spaceflight by a woman
END TIMES FOR PRO SURFING
By the time the pandemic is done reshaping the world, will the World Tour still have a place in it?
CHANGING OF THE GUARD
After decades of exclusive access to Hollister Ranch, the most coveted stretch of California coast is finally going public
What They Don't Tell You
How does becoming a mother affect your surfing life?
Four Things to Make You Feel A Little Less Shitty About Everything
Helpful reminders for the quarantine era
The Art of Being Seen
How a group of black women are finding creative ways to make diversity in surfing more visible
