A (different) African Safari

Uganda’s geography and its variety of natural habitats make it a haven for wildlife enthusiasts

- Satyajit Das

Other than for its gorillas, Uganda rarely finds a mention among favoured African wildlife destinations. The country is still associated with its infamous dictator Idi Amin, who left the nation bankrupt and allowed the destruction of its national parks. But Uganda has made a remarkable recovery and today is one of the best wildlife destinations on the continent, as we find out.

With our driver and guide Martin Okot, we undertake a month-long circuit of the country: From Entebbe, we travel north-east to Jinja, then north to Masindi and Murchison Falls, before turning south along the Rift Valley, returning to our starting point via Lake Mburo.

Mammal fix

Uganda is different from eastern and southern Africa because it lacks the high concentration of wildlife, with the exception of the Queen Elizabeth (QE) National Park. Situated in the scenic Albertine Rift, bordering lakes Edward and George, fringed by the Rwenzori Mountains that rise more than 5000 m, the 2,000 sq km park has 95 species of mammals, including 25 predators.

On drives through the park, we spot a wide variety of herbivores, such as waterbuck, topi, and buffalo. Uganda’s national animal, the kob, a handsome medium-sized antelope, is abundant. Hippos wallow in and around the many waterways while baboons, one of the 10 primates found here, are easily seen, as are warthogs. We also come across a group of giant forest hogs, the largest wild pig native to wooded habitats in Africa. Our lodge even has a large band of habituated banded mongooses, who patrol their territories and inspect guests with obvious curiosity.