THE KONKAN'S HIDDEN CUISINE

Long thought to be simple fare, Kokni Muslim cuisine’s unique flavors and aromas are slowing wafting out of the confines of home kitchens

- MINI RIBEIRO

When you think of Muslim cuisine, what do you think of? Hyderabadi dum biryani, Lucknowi galouti kebab on a warqi paratha, or the lavish Bohri thaal? Dishes such as yakhni gosht (dry mutton), machli cha halduni (fish gravy), dum che Bombil (Bombay Duck made in the dum technique) are not the ones that readily come to mind as most of us are unfamiliar with the cuisine of the Kokni Muslim community.

What has kept this cuisine away from public knowledge is that it cannot be found at just about any restaurant and can be sampled only at home-dining experiences or pop-ups, that too only over the past couple of years.

One such is Ammeez Kitchen, a home-dining service on weekends at Marol, Mumbai, founded by Shabana Salauddin in 2017. “Ammeez Kitchen happened over a conversation with my mother, Ammee, while having our meal,” she recalls. “The discussion hovered around why Kokni Muslim food, which is so delectable, is unknown compared to other regional cuisines? Ammee dismissed the idea, saying our food is just ‘ghar ka khaana [simple home food]’. This strengthened my resolve, as I felt this was exactly what I wanted to showcase.”

Kokni Muslims are a sub-ethnic group from the Konkan region, including the areas of Thane, Raigad, Ratnagiri and Sindhudurg. About 1,000 years ago, trade between the Indian sub-continent and West Asia saw Arab merchants coming to this region—to ports such as Chaul, near Alibaug—and, over centuries, settling along the coast, marrying into the local communities and giving rise to the Kokni Muslim community of seafarers. The Arabs brought along with them the knowledge of food such as yakhni or mutton dishes, and spices such as fennel. Besides, owing to their location, seafood became an integral part of their cuisine along with local, Maharashtrian influences.